Birds
of Sirpur, Indore
authored by Bhalu Mondhe (freelance artist/sculptor and photographer),
Abhilash Khandekar (professional journalist of 30 years standing in print media
+ a wildlife and nature enthusiast) and Kaustubh Rishi (Engineer +
ornithologist + wildlife photographer by passion) is a collection of crisp
colourful photographs and concise text of some 130 birds found at Sirpur Lake
(Indore). I am indeed very grateful to Devji (Mr. Dev Kumar Vasudevan)
for introducing me to this gem of a book.
(With two
obvious exceptions: that of the legendary "Birdman of India" Dr. Salim Ali and
the evergreen Ruskin Bond) one rarely comes across someone who appreciates
nature and her many bounties, including such beautiful creatures known as
birds... as deeply as Devji. He shares his birthday with the great Swami
Vivekananda... and I am sure many people do so too. But not everyone has such
love for the environment, trees, flowers, animals, birds, and our culture, et
al.
Muchas gracias Devji
- for this wonderful avian treat. :)
A
delightful field guide on a variety of birds - water birds, wetland birds and
tree birds - Birds of Sirpur was launched on 1st October 2012.
It acquaints
us with 23 types of water birds, 41 types of wetland birds and 66 types of tree
birds; each of them neatly accompanied by the following: their Common Name,
Scientific Name and Local Name; besides their Call, Status (whether migrant,
winter visitor, residential or residential migrant), Sighting Month, Details,
Habitat, Food and Nesting habit. [Due to the freezing lakes and dipping
temperatures in their native lands, a large number of (migratory) birds from
Central Asian lands and Europe make Sirpur Lake their temporary home with the
onset of winter. Thousands of birds nestled on tree branches and in the water,
creating various sounds with their chirping and flapping, is a view, perhaps,
no bird lover would like to give a miss.]
There is
also a small write-up re: the topography of a bird (complete with
illustration). It is not filled with highly technical or detailed plumage
descriptions (which would have confused any lay wildlife and nature
enthusiast). Instead: it consists of the correct names (along with a labeled
picture) for the exterior parts and feathering of a bird. Knowledge and
familiarity with these terms will (no doubt) lead to sharper field observation
and (also) help in making accurate notes about a bird... that one may have seen
or handled. It will be very useful for beginners.
Other tidbits:
- Total bird species in Madhya
Pradesh: 496
- Total bird species in India:
1031
- Total bird species in the
World: 10,451
- Large birds like Greater
Flamingo and Sarus Crane both visit Sirpur Lake
- Besides birds, Sirpur has 3
species of turtle, 8 species of butterfly and 7 species of reptile.
All the images used in this book are of those birds found
in Sirpur Lake (shot by various photographers from time to time). One must
linger over the pictures... to admire the colourful plumage of each bird and to
marvel at nature's artistry, diversity and bounty. Besides: to know just how few
of them we are familiar with (whether seen firsthand, in pictures or heard
about).
Though
there are a number of books on birds, ornithology, field guides and so on, Birds
of Sirpur is indeed very special. Simply because this book is the outcome
of a Herculean effort to first conserve their habitat (Sirpur Lake) against various
odds, then to lure the avian visitors back (to the Lake). Only thereafter has
this book been compiled. It truly is a labour of love. The authors and their
associates have an abiding interest in saving our environment and conserving
nature. Their commitment shines through.
The book
jacket cover is well done. Three Sarus Cranes adorn the front cover while a
picture of the now-rejuvenated Lake is at the back. Birds and Sirpur
is prominent in red amidst a mellow shade of yellow. The fonts gel well with the overall
look and feel of the book. It feels good to hold too. There are a few editing errors though, which should
have been pruned out, not that they interfere in any way. So, maybe, we can simply
ignore them and focus on the birds instead.
Thanks to Devji, my copy of the Birds
of Sirpur came along with a bunch of picture postcards (containing the
images of a few of our avian friends). And since I am a fledgling collector of
picture postcards, this put an even bigger smile upon my face.
I am still marveling at the many species of dove,
ducks, heron and crane there are! [Picture of Common/Eurasian Coots @ Sirpur Lake.]
As to:
why the "White Wagtail" (Motacilla alba) is called "Dhoban" locally or
why the "Oriental White Eye" (Zosterops palpebrosus/ Baboona, Motuchur)
is called "Motichur" - I have not a clue. And "Motichur" looks like as though
it's wearing a round pair of chasma. [Must be a very studious bird, what
say?! :)]
And while the Purple Moorhen (Gallinula Chloropus)
is a nice-and-colourful-looking bird, it's many local names: Kaim, Kharim,
Kalim, Khima - fail to do justice. Even remotely. [Humph! Not fair.] Pic: The Purple Moorhen among the reeds somewhere inside the Lake.
I had
heard and read about the Pan-kawri (pan kowwa)... but never seen it. It is
called Great Cormorant in English and Pankowri in Bangla. Scientific
name: Phalacrocorax carbo. [Sounds like some species of dino-croc. :) These scientific names... I tell
you!] Pic: Cormorant on a Babool Tree.
But I wasn't
aware that there is a "Little Cormorant" (Chhota Pan-kawwa/ Phalacrocorax
niger) too. [Pic: Little Cormorant in flight.]
The
"White-Breasted Waterhen" is called Jal murghi, Dawak, Dahak, Dauk, Panpaira.
Scientific name: Amaurornis
phoenicurus. It is called Dahuk pakhi in Bangla. [Pakhi = bird, the Bangla
equivalent of the Hindi "pakshi".]
While the
"Bronze-Winged Jacana" (Metopidius indicus) is Dal Pipi, Jal Pipi,
Karatiya and Pipi. Delightful, isn't it?! A leggy swamp bird somewhat like a
Moorhen, with glossy black head, neck and breast, metallic greenish bronze back
and wings, and chestnut-red stub tail, the Jal Pipi has a broad white stripe from behind eye
to nape. [Pic: The Bronze-Winged Jacana pottering about somewhere inside the lake.]
As for
the "Greater Flamingo": it is known as Rohit or Agnipankh (probably due to its
rosy-white colour. Rozy-hued or reddish is Rohit/Rohitah/Lohitah in Sanskrit). Its
scientific name is: Phoenicopterus rubber. [And that kinda makes
it sound like an extinct rubber helicopter, what? :)]
The Sarus Crane (in pic), on the other hand, is (methinks)
responsible for the term "Apsara". Here's why:
Contrary to popular belief, Apsaras were not celestial
beings but female Gandharvas. Saras = lake or water-body, besides being a
reference to the lake-bird - the Sarus Crane. [This lake-bird (Sanskrit:
Sarasa) is much-venerated in our culture and is also associated with Maharshi
Valmiki.] The Sarus Crane (also: Saras Crane) performs territorial and
courtship displays that include loud trumpeting, leaps and dance-like
movements. The female Gandharvas, as we know, were adept at the performing
arts, and these may have included leaps and energetic dance-like movements
(much like the Ballet and the Flamenco) - to the accompaniment of gay music.
Hence, (probably) over time, the female Gandharvas first came to be associated
with the Saras Crane, and then (gradually) began to be referred to as the
"Ap-Saras" (possibly: 'saras-like') - which later gave way to
"Apsara". They were also regarded as possessors of great knowledge,
be it in the fine arts, performing arts, medicinal herbs, flowers, perfumes,
and the like. Urvashi, Menaka, Rambha, Tillottama et al are legendary Apsaras.
Also: the name "Flamenco" may have been derived from Flamingo.
And the Saras and Flamingo (of another era/yug) may have been related. It
is worth noting that the Flamingo is a mix of bright and lighter shades of
pink, while the Flamenco dancers wear red. [So, where do you think have the
Ballet and the Flamenco originated? :)]
[The Gandharvas may have been an offshoot/sub-clan of the
Sura/Deva clan/people. The name Gandharva is of Sanskrit origin,
and is very likely derived from the Sanskrit word gandha, meaning perfume,
odour or smell. These people were renowned for their great knowledge of
flowers, aromatic herbs, plants and birds. Hence "Gandharva" is a
reference to the spices and aromatic herbs that they [the inhabitants of
ancient Northwest South Asia, including Bakthria and possibly also the people
using the Kharoṣṭhī script] traded and with which they anointed themselves.
They were also well-versed in music and dance besides being expert players of a
variety of musical instruments.]
However: one mustn't confuse the Flamingo for the Sarus Crane
and vice versa... on account of their long-legs and brightly-coloured plumage.
They are otherwise quite different.
But
let's not digress. Let's return to the Birds of Sirpur.
Apparently: "Dubdubi" is Little Grebe. [But I am only
familiar with Doob Doob - the simple-minded crocodile from the Tinkle
comics (and a friend of the wily Chamtaka).]
The
"Wire-Tailed Swallow" (Hirundo smithii/ Abadil, katij, totki) - on the
other hand - is a sight to behold. Glossy steel blue above, with a chestnut
cap, it is readily distinguished from other swallows by its glistening white
under-parts and two long, fine tail 'wires'. [What amazing architecture!]
Even the
"Paradise Flycatcher" (M.P. State Bird): Rufous plumage: Shah bulbul, Husaini
bulbul, (White plumage: Sultan bulbul, Dudhraj) is quite eye-catching. One word: Mr. Majestic.
But yours truly is somewhat confused by the "Bluethroat" (Nil
kanthi/ Luscinia svecica) and the "Indian Roller" or Blue Jay (Coracias
benghalensis/ Tas, Chas, Neelkanth - meaning: Blue throat).
Especially: since both their call is a chack sound.
[Though the Indian Roller also makes a variety of other sounds, including
metallic boink calls and may occasionally attempt fishing from water. However, this bird (Neelkanth/Indian Roller) is one of my favorites. In flight, it displays the most magnificent of all blues. To me it is: Mr. Monarch.]
One can
mistake the "House Sparrow" (Passer domesticus/ Gauriya, Goura,
Charkalpe, Garhwa, Ginjishki) for the "Zitting Cisticola" (Cisticola
juncidis/ Ghas-ki-Phutki, Kali phutki) and vice versa - especially in the
wild or from afar. The former though is (until now) a familiar sight... despite the
relentless massacring of our trees. [House Sparrow = CharAi pakhi in Bangla.
In Bangla pronunciation: "a" = first vowel (in Sanskrit/Hindi/...) (awe). "A" =
second vowel (long) (far).]
But given
how fast the green cover is shrinking... none can say for how much longer. And
once the green cover almost vanishes, the "KAthh-thhokrA" - the "Lesser
Golden-Backed Woodpecker" (Dinopium benghalense/ Son pathi sutar,
Maramkothi, Tachchan kuruvi) will not have any more "kAthh" (wood) to peck on. :(]
The "Red
Vented Bulbul" (Pycnonotus cafer/ Bulbul, Guldum) too can be mistaken
for the "Sykes's Crested Lark" (Galerida deva/ Chinna chandul) - from
afar or in the wild. [Pic: Red Vented Bulbul, clicked at Sirpur Lake.]
[Bulbul:
Bangla = Bulbuli pakhi.]
While the "Sykes's Crested Lark" can even pass off as a sparrow - from afar. Here's the "Sykes's Crested Lark". Hello Mr. Elvis!
Apparently:
the "Pied Crested Cuckoo" (Clamator jacobinus) is called Kala bulbul
(besides: Chatak, Papiya and Kala papiya). [Its call goes:
piu-piu-pee-pee-piu-piu-pee-pee-piu. So, probably: this bird and its call have
inspired a whole bunch of songs!] Pic: The Pied Cuckoo (clicked at Sirpur Lake). A
summer visitor from Sri Lanka and South India (where it resides and breeds) to
North and North-East India.
[According
to Indian mythology/legend/apocryphal stories: the "Pied Crested Cuckoo" is associated
with a bird known as the chātak and is represented as a bird with a beak on its
head. It waits for rains to quench its thirst. The well-known naturalist,
educationist and intellectual, Satya Churn Law, however noted that in Bengal,
the bird associated with the "chātak" of Sanskrit was the Common
Iora (Fotik jol/Aegithina tiphia) unlike the Pied Crested Cuckoo suggested by
European orientalists. He further noted that a captive Iora that he kept drank
water only from dew and spray picked up from plant leaves... suggesting that it
may have been the basis for the idea that the "chātak" only drank
raindrops. Pet Birds of Bengal: Link.]
BTW, even
the "Brain Fever Bird" (Hierococcyx varius) is called Papiha, Papiya,
Kapak and Upak.
On the other hand, the Kajol pakhi or "Brown Shrike" (Lanius
cristatus) is called Karkata and Karkheta. [Reminds me of one of the
players from "Chak De! India".]
Mr. Artist - the
"Coppersmith Barbet" (Magalaima haemacephala) is called Katphora,
Thathera Basanti and Chota Basanti. [Sholay, anyone?!]
However: why the "Crested Bunting" (Melophus lathami)
is called Patthar Chiria - I know not.
But the
"Jungle Crow" (Corvus macrorhynchos) - Kala kowwa, Pahari kowwa, Jangli kowwa
(with a deep and hoarse 'caw') instantly reassures me about my fledgling
ornithologist status. [It is called "DaANd Kak" in Bangla and has a
shiny raven-coloured plumage. [Chamtaka's nemesis: the very smart "Kalia - the
Crow" is an ordinary crow though. You know, the House Crow (Corvus
splendens).] Pic: Large-billed (Jungle) Crow (clicked at Sirpur Lake).
The
"Egyptian Vulture" (Neophron percnopterus/ Safed Gidh/ Kal kurgh) is
quite noble looking. Also called the "Pharaoh's Chicken," it is a small Old
World vulture and the only member of the genus Neophron. [Imagine: 'Flight of the Pharaoh's Chicken'!]
Among all
aves, our National Bird - the "Indian Peafowl" (Pave cristatus/ Mor,
Maura, Manjur) - stands out. Obviously! [Peacock is "Mayur" in Bangla.]
I have seen the "Yellow-Wattled Lapwing" (Vanellus malabaricus/ Zirdi,
jithiri, laori) a couple of times or so... but I am quite familiar with the
Machhraanga - the "Small Blue Kingfisher" (Chhota Kilkila, Nika machhrala,
Chhota tont). I have seen it quite a few times... diving at lightening speed and
with precision - a brilliant bluish-orange blur - and then taking off with a
fish... to savour for breakfast or for lunch. [Umm, since it is a fish-eating
bird, I take it that it possess high IQ. Though may not be in the same league
as Jeeves. Yet. But God's painting it is.]
"Plum
Headed Parakeet" (Psittacula cyanocephala/ Tuiya tota) - I have yet to
see. But the guava-eating "Rose Ringed Parakeet" (Pisttacula krameri/
Tota, Lyber tota, Popat, Keera) - is fairly common. [Bangla = Tia or Tiye
pakhi.] Pic: A pair of Rose Ringed Parakeet. Clicked at Sirpur Lake.
As for
the "Purple Sunbird" (Nectarinia Asiatic/ Shakar khora, chumka) - it is
known as Moutusi in Bangla. [Moutusi... nice name, no?]
The "Baya
Weaver" or Babui Pakhi (Ploceus phlipinus/ Baya, Sonchiri, Suyam,
Sugahri, Bijra) and the "Tailor Bird" (Orthotomus sutorius/ Darzee,
Piddi) - are two of nature's greatest wonders. 'Coz despite being the "most
evolved of all species," the Homo sapiens sapiens cannot weave or stitch like
these tiny creatures.
[However:
that still doesn't help me understand... why the "White Wagtail" (Motacilla alba) is
called "Dhoban". "Weaver Bird" and "Tailor Bird" - I can understand. But
"Dhoban"?!!]
And the Tailor
Bird - one of the most difficult birds to photograph - is none other than
Upendrakishore Raychoudhuri's "Tuntuni Pakhi"! It is difficult to photograph...
not because of its tiny size, but simply because it cannot sit still for more than a
few seconds and cannot decide which direction it wants to look! It is always super-excited!! But we all love this energetic little bird immortalized
in our folk tales (by legends like Upendrakishore Ray Chowdhury and Rudyard
Kipling). A Tuntuni bird weaves neat little nests by folding a leaf and sewing
it by collected fiber. Truly a tailorbird!
[Upendrakishore
Ray Chowdhury was Satyajit Ray's paternal grandfather. Upendrakishore - Sukumar
Ray - Satyajit Ray (+ the latter's cousin, Leela Majumdar). So many geniuses
within a family!]
The
"Oriental Magpie-Robin" or Doyel pakhi (Copsychus saularis/ Dhaiyal,
Dhaiyar, Daiyad) - I first got to know via "The Castafiore Emerald" - a Tintin
comic.
The
"Koel" (Eudynamys scolopacea/ Koel, Kokila) on the other hand - we are very familiar with. Kokil (Bangla) or the Cuckoo Bird is known for its
melodious ku-hoo, ku-hoo, ku-hoo. [However: the Cuckoo bird is also an
"outsourcing pioneer" - the female bird has been laying its eggs in the nests of crows since
time immemorial. This shows that although the crow is universally
regarded as a wily bird it certainly is naïve when it comes to counting chicks
before they hatch. It is probably when the young koels are ready to fly away to an absolutely different tune, that the stumped foster
parents realize the goof-up. Even the Pied Cuckoo lays its eggs in the nests of other
birds.]
The Brahminy mynah
(the black-headed myna) or "Brahminy Starling" (formerly, Sturmus Pagodarum; now:
Sturnia pagodarum/ Kalasir Myna, Puhaiya, Pupaiya Myna) is quite neatly groomed, while
the "Common Myna" (Acridotheres tristis/ Myna, Hor, Gulgul, Salik,
Shale) is a tad unkempt. ["Common Myna" is Shalik pakhi or Moyna in Bangla.
It is also the "two-for-joy" mynah.]
The Brahminy starling's specific name, pagodarum, is presumably in honour of
this species' fondness for perching on buildings and temple pagodas in southern
India.
The "Pied
Starling" (Sturnus contra/ Ablak, Ablaki myna, Siroli myna) - strikingly
marked in black and white with a yellowish bill and a reddish
bill base - is
"Gobore Shalik" in Bangla.
The friendly
"Black Drongo" (Dicrurus macrocercus/ kolsa, bhujanga, karanjua,
kalkalachi) or "Fingé pakhi" was a common sight... until a few years ago. Not any more. :(
Ditto the
"Scaly Breasted Munia" (Lonchura punctulata/ Telia munia, Seenabaz).
These tiny birds were a delight to watch. One wanted to learn all about them.
One wanted to say: Fly high, little guy, fly high.
The
Hoopoe (Upupa epops) is a colourful bird notable for its distinctive
'crown' of feathers. It
is called Mohan Chura (in Bangla). Why? Well, just as Gulmohar is known
as "Krishnachura" or 'crown of Krishna'. Or just as peacock feathers adorn the
crown of Krishna. Similarly, the Hoopoe is admired for its 'crown' of feathers, which is
compared to the 'crown of Krishna'. Clearly, Hoopoe is the King. [Krishna is also known as Mohan.]
As for
the "Indian Robin" (Saxicoloides fulicata/ Kalchuri) - I first
discovered it on packets containing "Neel" - most likely, Robin
Blue - the fabric whitener with pedigree.
Umm, have
seen the Chil or "Black Kite" (Milves migrans) and the "Large Egret"/Great
White Heron (Casmerodius
albus) with long slender head and neck, pointed bill and all-white plumage - many a time.
The Great Egret can be distinguished from other white egrets by its
yellow bill and black legs and feet. [Bangla: Sada Bok. Sada = white.] [Pic: Large Egret, clicked at Sirpur Lake.]
"Egret" has originated from the word "aigrettes", since
long, delicate, and ornamental nuptial plumes, called aigrettes, appear on the
back of these birds during the breeding season.
[The Chil or "Black Kite" (in pic) is not to be confused for the Shankhachil or
"Brahminy Kite" (since both are about the same size and have a typical
kite-flight, with wings angled). The latter is distinctive and contrastingly
coloured, with chestnut plumage except for the white head and breast and black
wing tips. In India, the noble-natured Brahminy Kite (Haliastur indus)
is considered as the contemporary representation of "Garuda," the sacred
bird/'vaahan' of Shri Maha Vishnu. [The Brahminy Kite (often referred to as
the Singapore Bald Eagle) is called Shankhachil
in Bangla. Shankha = conch. 'Coz the white plumage of this bird is similar to
the white of a conch shell.]
The
"Common Babbler" (Turdoides caudatus/ Chilchil, Sor, Genga, Dumri,
Heddo, Lailo, Saat Bhai) has an interesting English name. And so does the
"Jungle Babbler" (Turdoides striatus/ Saat bhai). But why they are
called "Saat Bhai" - my guess is as good as yours. Also: why "Common" is
prefixed to one while "Jungle" is prefixed to the other - no clue. But both are
Babblers... apparently. [The Jungle Babbler is called Chhatare in Bangla.]
The "Grey Francolin" (Francolinus pondicerianus/
Safed teetar, gowjal hakki, kawanga, chittur) is quite different from the
"Painted Francolin" (Francolinus pictus/ Kala teetar, Kakera kozhi).
Their names suggest as much. But the "Grey Hornbill" (Ocyceros birostris/
Dhanesh, Dhanel, Lamdar) - Dhanesh pakhi - appears to be quite serious and focused. [Pic: Grey Hornbill, clicked at Sirpur Lake.]
But why
the "Small Bee Eater" (Merops orientalis lathem/ Patringa, Harrial,
Pateri, Banspati) is called "Banspati" - I know not. ['Coz "Banspati" ghee or "Banspati" refers to Dalda, right?!]
There are
many more species of birds in this book. And given the times... it's a veritable
treat. 'Coz we are just left with crows, pigeons/doves, some chil/kites,
common myna and sparrows + the occasional parrot or two.
My twopenceworth: Botanical
names of plants or scientific names of birds (in Latin) are very cut and dry:
devoid of logic, imagination, philosophy, spirituality, or emotion. E.g., the
scientific name for "Indian Roller" or Blue Jay is Coracias
benghalensis. And I'm sure whosoever named it thus - have used
some reference point(s). But does it appeal to us?
On the other hand, we know the
same bird as "Neelkanth". This, I would say is logic blended with imagination,
and it appeals. It is poetic too, isn't it?
Mere cut and dry logic holds no
charm. Logic devoid of imagination and/or philosophy and/or a bit of spirituality -
will remain incomplete. [What say you?]
Greats like Acharya
Jagadish Chandra Bose and Aryabhatta were able to effortlessly merge logic with
imagination and/or philosophy and/or spirituality. The results are there for
all to see. Aryabhatta's way of explaining and presenting complex theories and
phenomena is very unique. I'm not aware whether the much-vaunted Greek
astronomers came any close. While the pioneering botanist and physicist,
Acharya J.C. Bose was great in every sense of the word. His was a
phenomenal mind. He demonstrated that plants too have life when everyone else
thought otherwise [and this "everyone else" included the scientific
community too, and they (surely) employed 'logic', or their version of
"logic" - so as to arrive at such a conclusion, right?]
Acharya J.C. Bose's explanation of what is "living" and what
is "non-living" is a true eye-opener. It could not have happened
without the seamless blending of imagination and spirituality. And this, he
would have imbibed from our ancient heritage. Therefore: in my humble opinion,
he enriched logic. He infused life into logic.
In the absence of imagination,
philosophy, spirituality or a wee bit of emotion, logic loses its appeal, it
remains incomplete: whether vis-à-vis humans or with respect to intangibles or
abstracts. Logic cannot exist on it's own. It needs humans. And therefore:
imagination, philosophy, spirituality and/or a wee bit of emotion are
inseparable from logic. Is it not?
Now, take the example of
botanical names or the scientific names of birds - in Latin. They may have
perfect logic behind them - but do they appeal to us? And even if we remember
them, isn't it like a chore, laboured?
However, the same logic, if
paired with imagination and/or philosophy and/or spirituality and/or a wee bit
of emotion - transcends many barriers; it appeals to our hearts, minds and
soul, and remains with us - forever.
Just like
"Neelkanth," Indian Roller and Coracias benghalensis.
Here
is a bit about the Sirpur Lake and how this Lake and its avifauna were
salvaged: A
lovely, natural bird habitat until the 80s, the rain-fed Sirpur Lake was almost
forgotten. This over a 100-year old, once-beautiful Lake, situated on the
Indore-Dhar highway, was the Royal Holkar family's gift to Indore. It was later
taken over by the Indore Municipal Corporation (IMC). The foreword by Mr. M. N.
Buch (Padmabhushan, Chairman, NCHSE, Bhopal/ Former Civil Servant, eminent
environmentalist and urban planner) talks of a time when the Khan River was
actually a river and not a sewer and the Palace, Manik Bagh (Nahar Bhandara),
was used for boating. The Sirpur Lake was the jewel in the crown and a nature
heritage of the historic city of Indore, once ruled by Devi Ahilyabai. Mr. Buch
talks about the myriad bird population of Sirpur and its environs (when he was
a young Sub Divisional Officer of Kannod in Dewas District in 1960). He had
(then) visited Sirpur Lake because it was one of the well-known constituents of
the nature heritage of Indore city. But as the city grew the Lake soon became a
victim of unplanned urbanization: Trees were hacked, sewage and garbage
polluted the Lake (whose area shrank and as the Lake became smaller and
dirtier, aquatic life and avifauna both suffered).
The Lake owes
its re-birth to the untiring efforts of Madhya Pradesh's famous photographer,
Bhalu Mondhe. The citizens of Indore, originally in small number, too joined
him and Abhilash Khandekar... and they became a two-man army to fight for
Indore's heritage. Out of Mondhe's resolve: to save Sirpur Lake and its flora
and fauna - was born The Nature Volunteers (TNV) - "an informal pressure group
of environmentally restless people" - a not-for-profit body. [Bhalu Mondhe,
Abhilash Khandekar along with Dilip
Phadke, Sudhir Sone and Salil Tambe founded The Nature Volunteers in
1994.]
Later,
experts like Kaustubh Rishi joined them and together they created an awareness
of the Lake, the dangers it was facing and the need to conserve it. Existing
trees were preserved, new trees came up, bird life made a come back and the
Lake water underwent a gradual recovery. Suddenly, Sirpur is alive again. It
indeed is a remarkable achievement (though
much remains to be done).
The Nature Volunteers (TNV) did everything possible in the
last 15-20 years to see the lake regain its pristine glory. Among various
environment movements of the country, Sirpur is a well-known success story...
made possible by a handful of energetic people who passionately love Indore and
its environment - whatever is left of it now.
Let us
hope Sirpur Lake's success story is replicated throughout the country,
especially since (unfortunately) human interference in bird habitats
(encroachment on water banks, uncontrolled fishing, increase in use of chemical
pesticides and fertilizers) is becoming a big obstacle in the conservation of
our avian friends. We must understand that birds help maintain a balance in our
ecology. This awareness needs to spread. Also: a large number of
plastic bags, junk litter, immersion of plaster of Paris and other degradable
and non- degradable garbage have been posing a threat to the wetland habitats.
This needs to change too. And soon.
Here is a bit about Sirpur: Ensconced in
the lush-green vicinity of the Barnawapara sanctuary, Sirpur is located on the
beautiful banks of the river Mahanadi, about 50 kms from the capital, Raipur. It was
a happening place 1300 years ago. The excavations undertaken by the
Archeological Survey of India has unearthed important Buddhist sites (the
Anandaprabhu Buddha Vihara, the Swastika Vihara, and the Tivaradeva Mahavihara -
the largest and most ornate of all the viharas), besides the remains of 100
Buddha Viharas, 4 Jain Vihara, 200 mounds and other smaller temples, apart from the 6th
century Laxman Temple and a host of idols belonging to that period. Standing on
the banks of the Mahanadi in Mahasamund District, atop the ruins of the capital
of Dakshin Kosala or Chhattisgarh (as it was then known), Sirpur was Shripura (or
Sripura).
Sripura
or Shripura was the old name of this town (as is evident from many grants and
inscriptions). Some traditions translate this Sripura to 'the City of Wealth'
as Sri is a reference for Sri Sri Lakshmi Devi, the goddess/deity/symbol/devi
of wealth, wisdom, prosperity, happiness and good health - in the Indian
pantheon. Sri is also the consort of Shri Maha Vishnu.
This
region was once a bustling and flourishing trading centre - that witnessed a
constant flow of merchants from China. Abounding monuments and structures (that
were - until recently - buried under layers of sand and earth) add to the
treasure-trove of information and architectural beauty that was once Sripura. [It is
surmised that this is perhaps the biggest temple town of the sixth and seventh
centuries to be discovered anywhere so far. However, excavations have yielded
a number of beautiful sculptures, many stone inscriptions, and pottery dating
back to the 2nd century B.C. indicating that Shripura/Sripura flourished right from
2nd cent. B.C. Apparently, Shripura had once been blessed with the arrival
of Bhagavan Shri Gautam Buddh himself.]
It is also
conjectured that Sripura must have been an important settlement/civilization in
Central India and that it was a major Buddhist study centre, at least four
times as vast as the great Buddhist University at Nalanda. This is perhaps
gleaned from the Chinese traveler, Hiuen Tsang's travelogue (that mentions Sripura/Shripura as having over a hundred Buddhist
monasteries inhabited by over 10,000 monks - belonging to the Mahayana sect).
Recent excavations in the region have revealed some conch bangles, giving rise
to the opinion (amongst a section of archeologists) that Bhikshunis or female
monks too probably inhabited the monasteries.
A two
metre tall monolithic statue of the Buddha touching the earth (seated in the
lotus position) and belonging to the 6th century is one of the largest finds at
this site (in the current/21st century). There are also the ruins of
a Shri Ram temple, though a few stone foundation structures are all that remain
of what must have once been an important temple. History records that the
shrine here was the earliest example of star-shaped temple of South Kosala
region.
Among the
loose sculptures, one finds idols of Devi Chamunda, mahishAsuramardinI (Devi Durga/Parvati), Nataraj
and Uma-Mahesvara, besides the Trimurti and the Navagraha. But layers of
whitewash have hidden most of their features. There is also an 8 ft tall monolithic
image of Sri Bhagavan Mahavir Jain. However, many rare idols (such as the
idol of Goddess Tara - a form of Devi Chamunda/Kaali) can now be found
in foreign museums.
The marvelous
Laxman Temple mesmerizes with its sheer size and magnificent work. This temple
is believed to be the first such place of worship in India to be built solely
of bricks. Although named after Shri Ram's younger brother (Lakshman), the
temple is a Lord Vishnu shrine and has stood the test of time. The temple stands on a six-foot
high platform and its entrance is adorned with several figures carved in stone.
The doorframe is of stone and a figure of the reclining Vishnu on Sheshnag is
seen on the Lintel. The panels of the doorway are embellished with statues of
the incarnations of Shri Vishnu and his devotees. The high brick roof ends in
an imposing shikhar or temple dome, the passage of time clearly written
on it.
[Alexander
Cunningham reports of a Vishnu idol lying outside the temple that was similar
to the idol found at Eran. He suggests that it might be the main idol of the
sanctum.]
The Vishnu/Lakshman temple
was (supposedly) built in the 8th century: by Vasata - the daughter of King
Suryavarman of Magadh and the mother of Mahasivagupta Balarjun. The latter was
a Shaivaite ruler and is credited with building the city of Shripura, the City
of Wealth, as the capital of the kingdom of Maha-kosala.
It was during his reign that Sripura attained the pinnacle of religio-cultural
conviviality (extending its warmth as much to Hinduism as to Jainism and
Buddhism). The noted Chinese traveler Hieun Tsang has testified to this in his
travelogue after visiting Sripura in 639 AD.
[The Sirpur
stone inscription (found in
the debris of this temple and now in Raipur Museum) begins with invocatory prose to Purushottam (Vishnu). The
next few verses are dedicated to Shri Narasimha, the Lion-Man incarnation of
Shri Vishnu. King Mahasivagupta, his mother and two ancestors are mentioned.
Chandravamshi (moon-worshipping, moon-flag-bearing/Chandradhvaj, Somavamshi)
king Mahasivagupta was the son of Harshagupta. The inscription further mentions
that his mother, Vasata, was the daughter of Suryavarman, the king of Magadh. And
that: after the demise of her husband, she constructed a temple dedicated to
Shri Hari (Vishnu). The next seven verses praise her acts.]
Some
copper-plate inscriptions and a Chinese coin unearthed at Sirpur point towards
the fact that trade was buoyant during the period of Mahashivgupta and this
brought along with it exchanges of learning/knowledge from neighbouring
countries. Shripura/Sripura became an established centre of Buddhism between
the 6th and 10th centuries... during which period Hiuen Tsang is believed to have
visited the city.
Theories abound on the emergence of Sripura as a
flourishing town and its subsequent decline. Probably a "samudra-manthan"
ensued between the Buddhists and the Shaivites of the region... resulting in the
rulers leaving their capital to make Orissa their home. Yet others attribute
the decline of Shripura to the decline in trade. While some historians believe that
floods alone caused the decline/demise of Shripura, yet others say everything vanished underground after an earthquake. [Pic: the ruins at Sirpur.]
Present
region, most part, of Chhattisgarh was known as Kosala/Maha-Kosala or sometimes
Dakshina-Kosala (in ancient times). The boundaries of these three ancient
regions overlapped - from time to time.
Maha-Kosala
- as the region comprised of the whole of the upper valley of the Mahanadi and
its tributaries - from the source of the Narmada at Amarkantak on the north to the
source of the Mahanadi at Kanker on the south and from the Valley of Wen-Ganga
River on the west to the Hadsa and Jonk rivers on the east. [Huien Tsiang
visited India in seventh century CE and he mentions the kingdom of Maha-Kosala
comprising an area of 6000 li or 1000 miles. He did not mention the name of the
king but states that the king was a Buddhist but Kshatriya.]
The
earliest inscriptional reference of Maha-Kosala comes from the Allahabad Pillar
Inscription, which mentions that the Gupta king, Samudragupta (335-375/6 CE)
defeated King Mahendra of Kosala, which lies in Dakshinapatha. As many as six
different dynasties witnessed their rise and fall in Maha-Kosala. The earliest
dynasty is known from its copperplate charters found at Bilaspur, Raipur and
Raigarh. [These dynasties - that ruled over Shripura/Sripura - probably had accepted
the suzerainty of the Imperial Guptas.]
Local tradition mentions
Savaripura as the original name of (modern) Sirpur 'coz this was (apparently) the
region associated with Savari/Shabari [of the Ram-Shabari story.] According to
the Ramayan, Savari resided on the banks of the river Pampa to the west of the Rishyamukha
Parvat. And if we are to accept this local tradition, then Mahanadi
should be Pampa and the hills on the east would be Rishyamukha. Cunningham,
however, is reluctant to identify Mahanadi as Pampa. He felt that
identification with Suktimati is more appropriate.
The capital of Chedi or Maha-Kosala kings was at Manipura
on river Suktimati as mentioned in the Mahabharat. The river originates at
Suktimal Mountains, hence the name: Suktimati. Though this mountain range is
among seven main mountains of ancient India, its identification is yet to be
done. Most ancient inscriptions are found at Sirpur, Rajim and Aarang in Chhattisgarh,
hence these are the places of antiquity. Sirpur is situated on the banks of the river Mahanadi, which makes it appropriate to be identified as Manipura. And if this
is correct, then the river Mahanadi and the river Suktimati (of the Mahabharat) are one and the same.
Suktimal Mountains will then be the range of mountains to the south of Sehoa
from where Mahanadi, Pairi and Seonath rivers originate.
Even Siya-Ram's twins: Kush ruled
from Southern Kosala, while Luv ruled from Northern Kosala.
Shri Ram set up the city of Kusha-vati (near the Vindhya ranges) - for Kush,
and the city of Shravastipur - for Luv. [Sravasti is also closely linked with Bhagavan Shri Gautam Buddh.]
Lakshman and Urmila had two sons: Angada and Chandraketu. Shri
Ram (as per the advice of Bharat) founded the kingdom of Karupada (in the
Western regions) - for Angada and the kingdom of Chandrakanti (in the Northern
regions: Malwa country) - for Chandraketu. [Urmila was Sita's sister and daughter of Sheeradwaj - Raja Janak.]
Taksha and Pushkala were Bharat and Mandavi's sons. Mandavi
was Sita's cousin and daughter of Kushadwaj (younger brother of
Sita's foster-father, Sheeradwaj). [Sheeradwaj is best known as Raja
Janak. But "Janak" was actually the title assumed by the kings of Videha, also
known as Janakpur.]
Yudhajeet (Kaikeyi's brother) and Bharat (Kaikeyi's son)
conquered the kingdom of Gandhara and built the city of Taksha-seela
(named after one of Bharat's sons: Taksha.) Bharat built yet another city - Pushkala-vati
or "Lotus City" (named after his other son: Pushkala.) Pushkala-vati is
modern Peshawar. [It was also known as Purusha-pura. Purusha = Supreme
Spirit. Purusha-pura = the abode/city dedicated to the Supreme Spirit.]
[Taksha-seela: to
the east of the river Indus, was known to Alexander and the Greeks as: Taxila.
Pushkala-vati
(meaning: Lotus City): to the west of the river Indus, was known to Alexander
and the Greeks as: Peukelaotis.]
Later: the sons and descendants of Bharat ruled this region from
Taksha-seela. [Thus: Taksha-seela, the place where the famed university existed, gets
its name from Taksha (son of Bharat).]
Shatrughna had two sons, Suvahu and Shatrughati (with his wife Shrutakirti).
The former became king of Mathura, and the latter ruled in Vidisha.
[Shrutakirti was Sita's cousin - daughter of Kushadwaj and sister of
Bharat's wife, Mandavi.]
Even Shri Ram's mother - Kausalya - was the daughter of the King
of Dakshina Kosala Kingdom. She hailed from the royal family/clan of
(Dakshina) Kosala, hence her name: Kausalya (meaning: 'of Kosala' or 'hailing from the
ruling family/royal clan of Kosala'). [Dakshina Kosala or Southern Kosala was a
colony of Kosala kings... identified to be Chhattisgarh state and western Orissa
region.]
The fall
of the Yadavas of Devagiri and the Kakatiyas of Warangal at the hands of
Ala-ud-din Khilji was an event of extraordinary historical significance. In the
aftermath of the fall of these two once-mighty kingdoms, Devagiri and Warangal,
the Gonds of Candrapur seem to have made their rise as a political power.
According
to the local Gond traditions, there arose among them a hero known as Kol Bhilla
(the possessor of great strength and wisdom). He rallied the scattered Gond
tribes and united them into a sort of nation. We also find one Bhim Ballal
Sing, who is said to have established a Gond kingdom with Sirpur as its
capital.
[The
original seat of the Gond kings of Candrapur is considered to be Sirpur, twenty
miles to the south-west of Candrapur proper, on the southern bank of the
Painganga river, also known as Wardha. From here they shifted their capital to
present Ballarsah and finally to the historic Candrapur.]
Thus: Sirpur (ancient Shripura/Sripura) has a long and chequered
history dating back to our pracheen itihasa. At the
centre (of it all) is the river of dreams, Mahanadi, flowing with abundant
stories of past and present, reliving the golden age of centuries or perhaps
millenniums ago.
Details of the book: Birds of Sirpur
Indore/
Authors: Bhalu Mondhe |
Abhilash Khandekar | Kaustubh Rishi/ Published by:
The Nature Volunteers (TNV), Indore/ Binding: Paperback/ Publishing Date: 2012/
Genre: Non-fiction/ Pages: 176/
Price: INR 250.
Pictures: Courtesy TNV, Mr. D.K.
Vasudevan and Outlook.
+Crow.JPG)
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